After very very stressful independence day I am finally in Livingstone Zambia and at my lodge in Jollyboys backpackers. Well, what happened then? On 5th I went to the bus station to purchase my ticket for Saturday as advised. There I´ve been told that you can only purchase day before, to 6.30 and 7.30 leaving buses (I was planning leave at 11.30). Officer there told me to call exact at 9.30 on 6th to get a seat. Joonas do as been told and 9.30 sharp calls to Mazandu buss lines. Okay, man there tells me that bus is full! I was furious, cause I have given a time to call, but still it was too late. Next bus would leave around 13.30. Of course there is another bus lines to go with, but this is the only one which leaves when it should (others leave when they are full). We went to the bus station with Clive to see, if I would get another bus line. Everybody is dragging me to side to side "this bus leaves now, come here. Livingstone Livingstone!" I went to buss which was quite full and left around 11.45. Everything seemed to be okay, but then! Bus stop some point, cause it run out of fuel! Can you imagine, bus going for 500km drive without gas, nice. And more problems coming. A police officer came to the site and said, that the buss is not in full condition, so it have to bee checked after fueled. At this time clock was around 12.45. We went to gas station and passenger were furious including me. Around 13.00, they said that we have to get the bus to police station, then I flipped. I called to Mazandu to get ticket at 13.30 and started to run back to bus station (around 2km). I did not get refund, did not have time for that.
Luckily I got taxi to the bus station and got my ticket for 13.30, YES! Okay the bus was 45min late and the ride to 8 hours! When we left from bus station, I saw my fellow former co-passenger just near the station with the lousy bus. I made a right choice.
I arrived to Jollyboys after ten and I was exhausted! Fortunately they keeped my booking and I have amazing room (trying to get some pictures later!). Today I am going to visit the Livingstone museum and Livingstone Island. Tomorrow going to see The Falls and of to booze cruise! Booze cruise is cruise through Zambezi river in a boat, where you can drink and eat as much as you want as the price of entrance (45USD). There should be the most beautiful sunset in the hole country, let´s see. I am also planning to go for safari on Tuesday and see the Livingstone town.
Loads of happening and I can already say, that I could recommend Jollyboys, if you are planning to come to Livingstone. Amazing hostel!
Saturday, December 6, 2008
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Lusaka
Chaotic. That would be word I would describe this capital city of Zambia. In the suburbs life is quite normal in the eyes of an Finn. In Lusaka the roads are general in terrible conditions, big holes in the middle of the roads. Lots of traffic, actually enormous amount compared to the financial situation. Public transport is something hilarious. There is vans, “minibuses” like vans in Finland are, but here they are used as a buss´es. In one minibus goes 14 people (12 + drive and the cashier) and you can imagine how full it is then! It is very cheap though, only 3000kw (around 0.6e). Cashiers are like sharks how waits for blood coming out. Bus stops basically ever possible places and cashiers tries to get it full every time. They even drag, literally to buses and other cashiers even fight over the customer. Customer just go to the bus, who's cashier is the strongest and persistent. Comfortable? No. Efficient? No. Cheap? Oh yes.
When you reach the downtown Lusaka immediately people selling plastic bags, Christmas threes, lollipops, chargers anything come around and tries you to buy something. “Musungu” shout outs starts (which mean White man) and you just have to ignore it everything. When crossing the roads you have to be extremely careful, cause here human life is worthless. Cars do not stop or loose up the speed when you want to cross the road. You have to be patient, determined and fast to go over the street. And very careful!
Waste treatment? None. If you have garbage you just leave it to streets and you can really see it. All the trashes are basically burned. People do not seem to know what is sustainable development. In the supermarket your shopping are packed to plastic bags like one item per two bags, literally. Recycling? Of course, not in any kind of. There is some returnable bottles yes, have not figured out yet where to brought those, thought.
Poor´s are begging for the money all the time, you just have to ignore it. Ignorance is how you survive here as a western.
Now I´m here. Arcades, the shopping mall you can see the as you would like to see it everywhere. Clean, secure and comfortable. The real Africa?
When you reach the downtown Lusaka immediately people selling plastic bags, Christmas threes, lollipops, chargers anything come around and tries you to buy something. “Musungu” shout outs starts (which mean White man) and you just have to ignore it everything. When crossing the roads you have to be extremely careful, cause here human life is worthless. Cars do not stop or loose up the speed when you want to cross the road. You have to be patient, determined and fast to go over the street. And very careful!
Waste treatment? None. If you have garbage you just leave it to streets and you can really see it. All the trashes are basically burned. People do not seem to know what is sustainable development. In the supermarket your shopping are packed to plastic bags like one item per two bags, literally. Recycling? Of course, not in any kind of. There is some returnable bottles yes, have not figured out yet where to brought those, thought.
Poor´s are begging for the money all the time, you just have to ignore it. Ignorance is how you survive here as a western.
Now I´m here. Arcades, the shopping mall you can see the as you would like to see it everywhere. Clean, secure and comfortable. The real Africa?
Updates!
I am fresh and feeling good. Some updates:
2.12
After 12 hours of sleep I was ready to start my second day at GLM office. It is something around 30degrees outside. GLM office has no air condition so I did no feel so good there, actually very poor. I was ready to quit around 2pm, but survived till four and got a ride to mall. After quick visit to internet, we went with Clive and one his buddies (dont remember the name) to get couple of beers to this place called Fahrenheit. Looks just like basic pubs in Finland, nothing special. One matter, that is different, is that when you ask somebody for to have pint or two (in this case me), you are the who pays. Luckily beer is quite cheap in bars, at least the local Kaso and Mosi (around 1.3 euros a bottle) so I survived with only 20 euros or so.
3.12
At the office doing not much. Finish up with computers and starting check field reports from 2008. I have now get to know the finnish volunteer girl, who have been here from March. She is working with the GLM newspaper Green Times. It have been very nice to speak finnish again! And have somebody from same continent to share experiences and problems. She has also helped to get information for my Livingstone trip and guided me through Lusaka.
Respectfully I am leaving to town of Livingstone on 6th of December, the 91th independence day of Finland. I go there with bus and stay at Jollyboys backpackers hostel for 4 nights. Livingstone is the tourist capital of Zambia, so that is going to be so different from Lusaka, some points about Lusaka coming soon. In Livingstone I am going to visit the place everybody should once go. The Mosi-oa-Tunya, Smoke that thunders, The Victorial Falls. One of the natural wonders of the world, UNESCO world heritage sites, you name it. There is many activities to do and go, if you have money. I have tried to save some to go at least to National park, Livingstone Island and Devil´s Pool. Devil´s Pool is a pool in the egde of the falls, can you imagine that!?
Today I have spended my time by starting my field raport and also I have been checking GLM raports from past year. Tomorrow I am going with Hanna (that volunteer) to Finnish Ambassadors Indenpendece reception to her residence to celebrate Finland. This evening we go out with Clive again to see some clubs and nightlife. Tomorrow I am also doing my final preparations for Livingstone and say goodbye to GLM crew. I come back on Wednesday evening so I am not seeing them anymore before my departure to Finland! I have been here for over a week and days are going so fast. Next week at this time I am on my way to London Heathrow.
2.12
After 12 hours of sleep I was ready to start my second day at GLM office. It is something around 30degrees outside. GLM office has no air condition so I did no feel so good there, actually very poor. I was ready to quit around 2pm, but survived till four and got a ride to mall. After quick visit to internet, we went with Clive and one his buddies (dont remember the name) to get couple of beers to this place called Fahrenheit. Looks just like basic pubs in Finland, nothing special. One matter, that is different, is that when you ask somebody for to have pint or two (in this case me), you are the who pays. Luckily beer is quite cheap in bars, at least the local Kaso and Mosi (around 1.3 euros a bottle) so I survived with only 20 euros or so.
3.12
At the office doing not much. Finish up with computers and starting check field reports from 2008. I have now get to know the finnish volunteer girl, who have been here from March. She is working with the GLM newspaper Green Times. It have been very nice to speak finnish again! And have somebody from same continent to share experiences and problems. She has also helped to get information for my Livingstone trip and guided me through Lusaka.
Respectfully I am leaving to town of Livingstone on 6th of December, the 91th independence day of Finland. I go there with bus and stay at Jollyboys backpackers hostel for 4 nights. Livingstone is the tourist capital of Zambia, so that is going to be so different from Lusaka, some points about Lusaka coming soon. In Livingstone I am going to visit the place everybody should once go. The Mosi-oa-Tunya, Smoke that thunders, The Victorial Falls. One of the natural wonders of the world, UNESCO world heritage sites, you name it. There is many activities to do and go, if you have money. I have tried to save some to go at least to National park, Livingstone Island and Devil´s Pool. Devil´s Pool is a pool in the egde of the falls, can you imagine that!?
Today I have spended my time by starting my field raport and also I have been checking GLM raports from past year. Tomorrow I am going with Hanna (that volunteer) to Finnish Ambassadors Indenpendece reception to her residence to celebrate Finland. This evening we go out with Clive again to see some clubs and nightlife. Tomorrow I am also doing my final preparations for Livingstone and say goodbye to GLM crew. I come back on Wednesday evening so I am not seeing them anymore before my departure to Finland! I have been here for over a week and days are going so fast. Next week at this time I am on my way to London Heathrow.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
African effects.
Helou. I´m sorry that I have been out for day or two. I have had couple very rough nights. Been feeling sick for some reason. Maybe the weather, food or something else, well today much better.
We came to the mall before heading to the office. I have managed to do some computer work with GLM computers and it was about time; they are full of viruses :D.
Here´s some review about recent days:
30.11 Chibobo -> Lusaka
Last morning in Chibobo was kind of same than others. It was nice to go back "home". In my last morning I had one more visit, to see one fund raising chairperson. Her name is Royce and she is leading the hammer mill project. Like I said, with hammer mill villagers can produce maize flour (millie meal) to make food like nshima. Royce said, the new hammer mill have helped them a lot financially and community wise. With income from hammer mill, they could by pigs and food supplies for the villagers. Royce were extremely happy, that GLM have helped them to get that hammer mill and without Green Village project, would not be possible. Boyd was very gratefull, for the work we have been doind and courages us to continue.
That really made an impact to me and I give the greetings to team in Finland too.
We left around 9.30am after saying goodbye (to basicly everybody many times). Drive back to from Chibobo took around five hours thourgh Kapiri Mposhi, Kabwe and Chibombo. Views are just spetaculars and listening African music from the radio, you really feel the vibes.
Sunday evening I spended just resting and reading. Monday I would start my work at GLM office.
1.12 Lusaka
First of December, not only starting of Christmas time, but also World AIDS Day. Here you can not miss it. As you know in Africa, AIDS is an issue and it was all over the news, shopping malls and the streets. There were big events, talk shows and concerts.
Today I worked at GLM office with computer issues. My first job was to install anti-virus softwares and clean their computers from viruses. I think I sweeped around 120 viruses from five computers and 6 memory sticks. GLM office is very small and there is HOT. No air conditioning and I started to feel a bit sick there. When I got back to Emmannuel´s place I felt so sick, that I went to bed after 7pm, could not even eat. I got good rest though and we planned with Clive to get few beers on Tuesday.
We came to the mall before heading to the office. I have managed to do some computer work with GLM computers and it was about time; they are full of viruses :D.
Here´s some review about recent days:
30.11 Chibobo -> Lusaka
Last morning in Chibobo was kind of same than others. It was nice to go back "home". In my last morning I had one more visit, to see one fund raising chairperson. Her name is Royce and she is leading the hammer mill project. Like I said, with hammer mill villagers can produce maize flour (millie meal) to make food like nshima. Royce said, the new hammer mill have helped them a lot financially and community wise. With income from hammer mill, they could by pigs and food supplies for the villagers. Royce were extremely happy, that GLM have helped them to get that hammer mill and without Green Village project, would not be possible. Boyd was very gratefull, for the work we have been doind and courages us to continue.
That really made an impact to me and I give the greetings to team in Finland too.
We left around 9.30am after saying goodbye (to basicly everybody many times). Drive back to from Chibobo took around five hours thourgh Kapiri Mposhi, Kabwe and Chibombo. Views are just spetaculars and listening African music from the radio, you really feel the vibes.
Sunday evening I spended just resting and reading. Monday I would start my work at GLM office.
1.12 Lusaka
First of December, not only starting of Christmas time, but also World AIDS Day. Here you can not miss it. As you know in Africa, AIDS is an issue and it was all over the news, shopping malls and the streets. There were big events, talk shows and concerts.
Today I worked at GLM office with computer issues. My first job was to install anti-virus softwares and clean their computers from viruses. I think I sweeped around 120 viruses from five computers and 6 memory sticks. GLM office is very small and there is HOT. No air conditioning and I started to feel a bit sick there. When I got back to Emmannuel´s place I felt so sick, that I went to bed after 7pm, could not even eat. I got good rest though and we planned with Clive to get few beers on Tuesday.
Monday, December 1, 2008
More from Chibobo trip.
29.11 Chibobo
Saturday we did one farmer visit, but the farmer was not around. So we just looked around the farms and went back to guest premises to have a lunch. I got very nice memory from this nice lady. One Australian volunteer group had made "Support Chibobo" wristbands to raise some money for villager. She had one extra and she gave it to me. Truly life lasting memory. It very make me smile and be happy to see people to feel good, although their condition are poor, even unacceptable from Finnish point of view. James and Alan came to visit us and I really adore that little James! I played some football with him and he told lot´s of things (of course I did not understand, cause he was speaking bemba, but I tried my best). In the evening we went to see local "nightlife". In Chibobo villagers brew their own beer from maize. We went to couple of places where you could buy and drink it. 750ml bottle costs around 1000kwachas (0.2 euros) and I had some villagers with me enjoyinig the last night out.
I learned some more Bemba, Chawama Ukumanana, means nice to meet you. Tomorrow we are heading back to Lusaka.
Saturday we did one farmer visit, but the farmer was not around. So we just looked around the farms and went back to guest premises to have a lunch. I got very nice memory from this nice lady. One Australian volunteer group had made "Support Chibobo" wristbands to raise some money for villager. She had one extra and she gave it to me. Truly life lasting memory. It very make me smile and be happy to see people to feel good, although their condition are poor, even unacceptable from Finnish point of view. James and Alan came to visit us and I really adore that little James! I played some football with him and he told lot´s of things (of course I did not understand, cause he was speaking bemba, but I tried my best). In the evening we went to see local "nightlife". In Chibobo villagers brew their own beer from maize. We went to couple of places where you could buy and drink it. 750ml bottle costs around 1000kwachas (0.2 euros) and I had some villagers with me enjoyinig the last night out.
I learned some more Bemba, Chawama Ukumanana, means nice to meet you. Tomorrow we are heading back to Lusaka.
HELOU! Here we are again, this time for serious business matters. Downloading the anti-virus definitions for GLM, but I take advantage to write the blog the same time :). Let´s go back the time a bit:
So more about Wednesday evening, like I said, I had nice chats with Diana and Kubanda.
I have noticed that, Zambia has political issues on the cover now, cause the elections where just a month ago. Sitting president Levy died in the summer so Zambia had early elections. Against were ruling party MMD´s candidate Rupiah Banda and opposite partys Michael Sata. Sata were leading in the polls and were leading the counting of the vote. Kubanda explained, that when govermental party saw, that Sata was leading and was winning, they stopped the counting for over a week. Nothing was heard for a while and then they announced that votes have been casted and Banda won? Of course, in result opposite raised huge noise and for a reason! Same kind of situation happened in Zimbabwe. Kubanda said, that this is very normal in African countries.
And today top news, was that Banda signed a contract to raise 50% salaries of the high govermental officers. In the 18th poorest country in the world..
27.11 in Chibobo
We arrived to Chibobo before the dark and met the village co-ordinator Boyd (who is villages closest contact to GLM). Chibobo is village with a bit over than 1500 inhabitants in around 500km from Lusaka. The first word came to my mind seeing the village was “wow!”. You have seen those mud-made houses with grass as a roofs in the movies? Yep, that were the buildings like. Now electricity, no running water, very primitive. Bath is taken in the grass made shelter where boiled water is brought. Toilet, well you can call that toilet, but basicly it was hole in the ground, in the real meaning of the word (see the pictures in FB).
Boyd made a little tour through the village. He showed me the hammer mill (which is used to make corn to maize flower), community school and and our guest house. Actually our guest house were the only real house there and it is very new, build with the help of GLM. We met loads of villagers and everybody where more than friendly. Immediately I learned the first words in Bemba (the local language). Mulishani (when greeting people) and Bwino (response to that).
We had dinner in the evening around eight. At that time it was DARK. When I say dark, it´s black you cannot see anything without a lamp. Lucklily I brought a head lamp from Finland and I found it very usefull. We drank some Mosi and Kaso, Zambian and South African beers and ate nshima with relishes. Zambians eat Nshima in EVERY meal. I even asked is there a day, when they do not eat nshima. “Nshima is food for us, if we have not eaten nshima, we haven´t had a meal.” said one, so they have nshima even in Christmas. I had my own room in the guest house, with couple lizards and spiders.
28.11 Chibobo
In the morning I had my first experience of that bathing place and toilet. Bath, quite okay. Toilet, just hilarious :D hole in the ground. After breakfast we went to see one farmer and farmer club chairperson called Alan Spyder. He lives maybe 5-7km away from the guest house. Alan had many farms and bee hives. He farms maize and fruits. From the bee hives comes honey of course, which is very usefull for many ways. For example, they used it for food and a medicine. We went through Alans farms and hives sometime and then went to see his family. James, couple year old son of Alan´s made and lifelong effect on me. Smiling and happy little boy, full of joy was just amazing view. It really made me think, what really is important in life.
We had not much other activities during the evening. Resting and eating, very relaxing.
I teached some basketball to Boyd, Clive and one villager. Then we had some drinks. Some more than others..
There first full day made me really respect my own life and facilities we live in. Things like clean running water, electricity and daily meal is defaults for us, but here you have to work hard to get even one. In Finland when you shower for 5 minutes, you spend 75 litres of water. Here 13 people wash up with that amount and it is not even clean water. You can do the math.
So more about Wednesday evening, like I said, I had nice chats with Diana and Kubanda.
I have noticed that, Zambia has political issues on the cover now, cause the elections where just a month ago. Sitting president Levy died in the summer so Zambia had early elections. Against were ruling party MMD´s candidate Rupiah Banda and opposite partys Michael Sata. Sata were leading in the polls and were leading the counting of the vote. Kubanda explained, that when govermental party saw, that Sata was leading and was winning, they stopped the counting for over a week. Nothing was heard for a while and then they announced that votes have been casted and Banda won? Of course, in result opposite raised huge noise and for a reason! Same kind of situation happened in Zimbabwe. Kubanda said, that this is very normal in African countries.
And today top news, was that Banda signed a contract to raise 50% salaries of the high govermental officers. In the 18th poorest country in the world..
27.11 in Chibobo
We arrived to Chibobo before the dark and met the village co-ordinator Boyd (who is villages closest contact to GLM). Chibobo is village with a bit over than 1500 inhabitants in around 500km from Lusaka. The first word came to my mind seeing the village was “wow!”. You have seen those mud-made houses with grass as a roofs in the movies? Yep, that were the buildings like. Now electricity, no running water, very primitive. Bath is taken in the grass made shelter where boiled water is brought. Toilet, well you can call that toilet, but basicly it was hole in the ground, in the real meaning of the word (see the pictures in FB).
Boyd made a little tour through the village. He showed me the hammer mill (which is used to make corn to maize flower), community school and and our guest house. Actually our guest house were the only real house there and it is very new, build with the help of GLM. We met loads of villagers and everybody where more than friendly. Immediately I learned the first words in Bemba (the local language). Mulishani (when greeting people) and Bwino (response to that).
We had dinner in the evening around eight. At that time it was DARK. When I say dark, it´s black you cannot see anything without a lamp. Lucklily I brought a head lamp from Finland and I found it very usefull. We drank some Mosi and Kaso, Zambian and South African beers and ate nshima with relishes. Zambians eat Nshima in EVERY meal. I even asked is there a day, when they do not eat nshima. “Nshima is food for us, if we have not eaten nshima, we haven´t had a meal.” said one, so they have nshima even in Christmas. I had my own room in the guest house, with couple lizards and spiders.
28.11 Chibobo
In the morning I had my first experience of that bathing place and toilet. Bath, quite okay. Toilet, just hilarious :D hole in the ground. After breakfast we went to see one farmer and farmer club chairperson called Alan Spyder. He lives maybe 5-7km away from the guest house. Alan had many farms and bee hives. He farms maize and fruits. From the bee hives comes honey of course, which is very usefull for many ways. For example, they used it for food and a medicine. We went through Alans farms and hives sometime and then went to see his family. James, couple year old son of Alan´s made and lifelong effect on me. Smiling and happy little boy, full of joy was just amazing view. It really made me think, what really is important in life.
We had not much other activities during the evening. Resting and eating, very relaxing.
I teached some basketball to Boyd, Clive and one villager. Then we had some drinks. Some more than others..
There first full day made me really respect my own life and facilities we live in. Things like clean running water, electricity and daily meal is defaults for us, but here you have to work hard to get even one. In Finland when you shower for 5 minutes, you spend 75 litres of water. Here 13 people wash up with that amount and it is not even clean water. You can do the math.
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