Livingstone!

After very very stressful independence day I am finally in Livingstone Zambia and at my lodge in Jollyboys backpackers. Well, what happened then? On 5th I went to the bus station to purchase my ticket for Saturday as advised. There I´ve been told that you can only purchase day before, to 6.30 and 7.30 leaving buses (I was planning leave at 11.30). Officer there told me to call exact at 9.30 on 6th to get a seat. Joonas do as been told and 9.30 sharp calls to Mazandu buss lines. Okay, man there tells me that bus is full! I was furious, cause I have given a time to call, but still it was too late. Next bus would leave around 13.30. Of course there is another bus lines to go with, but this is the only one which leaves when it should (others leave when they are full). We went to the bus station with Clive to see, if I would get another bus line. Everybody is dragging me to side to side "this bus leaves now, come here. Livingstone Livingstone!" I went to buss which was quite full and left around 11.45. Everything seemed to be okay, but then! Bus stop some point, cause it run out of fuel! Can you imagine, bus going for 500km drive without gas, nice. And more problems coming. A police officer came to the site and said, that the buss is not in full condition, so it have to bee checked after fueled. At this time clock was around 12.45. We went to gas station and passenger were furious including me. Around 13.00, they said that we have to get the bus to police station, then I flipped. I called to Mazandu to get ticket at 13.30 and started to run back to bus station (around 2km). I did not get refund, did not have time for that.

Luckily I got taxi to the bus station and got my ticket for 13.30, YES! Okay the bus was 45min late and the ride to 8 hours! When we left from bus station, I saw my fellow former co-passenger just near the station with the lousy bus. I made a right choice.
I arrived to Jollyboys after ten and I was exhausted! Fortunately they keeped my booking and I have amazing room (trying to get some pictures later!). Today I am going to visit the Livingstone museum and Livingstone Island. Tomorrow going to see The Falls and of to booze cruise! Booze cruise is cruise through Zambezi river in a boat, where you can drink and eat as much as you want as the price of entrance (45USD). There should be the most beautiful sunset in the hole country, let´s see. I am also planning to go for safari on Tuesday and see the Livingstone town.

Loads of happening and I can already say, that I could recommend Jollyboys, if you are planning to come to Livingstone. Amazing hostel!

Lusaka

Chaotic. That would be word I would describe this capital city of Zambia. In the suburbs life is quite normal in the eyes of an Finn. In Lusaka the roads are general in terrible conditions, big holes in the middle of the roads. Lots of traffic, actually enormous amount compared to the financial situation. Public transport is something hilarious. There is vans, “minibuses” like vans in Finland are, but here they are used as a buss´es. In one minibus goes 14 people (12 + drive and the cashier) and you can imagine how full it is then! It is very cheap though, only 3000kw (around 0.6e). Cashiers are like sharks how waits for blood coming out. Bus stops basically ever possible places and cashiers tries to get it full every time. They even drag, literally to buses and other cashiers even fight over the customer. Customer just go to the bus, who's cashier is the strongest and persistent. Comfortable? No. Efficient? No. Cheap? Oh yes.

When you reach the downtown Lusaka immediately people selling plastic bags, Christmas threes, lollipops, chargers anything come around and tries you to buy something. “Musungu” shout outs starts (which mean White man) and you just have to ignore it everything. When crossing the roads you have to be extremely careful, cause here human life is worthless. Cars do not stop or loose up the speed when you want to cross the road. You have to be patient, determined and fast to go over the street. And very careful!

Waste treatment? None. If you have garbage you just leave it to streets and you can really see it. All the trashes are basically burned. People do not seem to know what is sustainable development. In the supermarket your shopping are packed to plastic bags like one item per two bags, literally. Recycling? Of course, not in any kind of. There is some returnable bottles yes, have not figured out yet where to brought those, thought.
Poor´s are begging for the money all the time, you just have to ignore it. Ignorance is how you survive here as a western.

Now I´m here. Arcades, the shopping mall you can see the as you would like to see it everywhere. Clean, secure and comfortable. The real Africa?

Updates!

I am fresh and feeling good. Some updates:
2.12

After 12 hours of sleep I was ready to start my second day at GLM office. It is something around 30degrees outside. GLM office has no air condition so I did no feel so good there, actually very poor. I was ready to quit around 2pm, but survived till four and got a ride to mall. After quick visit to internet, we went with Clive and one his buddies (dont remember the name) to get couple of beers to this place called Fahrenheit. Looks just like basic pubs in Finland, nothing special. One matter, that is different, is that when you ask somebody for to have pint or two (in this case me), you are the who pays. Luckily beer is quite cheap in bars, at least the local Kaso and Mosi (around 1.3 euros a bottle) so I survived with only 20 euros or so.

3.12

At the office doing not much. Finish up with computers and starting check field reports from 2008. I have now get to know the finnish volunteer girl, who have been here from March. She is working with the GLM newspaper Green Times. It have been very nice to speak finnish again! And have somebody from same continent to share experiences and problems. She has also helped to get information for my Livingstone trip and guided me through Lusaka.
Respectfully I am leaving to town of Livingstone on 6th of December, the 91th independence day of Finland. I go there with bus and stay at Jollyboys backpackers hostel for 4 nights. Livingstone is the tourist capital of Zambia, so that is going to be so different from Lusaka, some points about Lusaka coming soon. In Livingstone I am going to visit the place everybody should once go. The Mosi-oa-Tunya, Smoke that thunders, The Victorial Falls. One of the natural wonders of the world, UNESCO world heritage sites, you name it. There is many activities to do and go, if you have money. I have tried to save some to go at least to National park, Livingstone Island and Devil´s Pool. Devil´s Pool is a pool in the egde of the falls, can you imagine that!?

Today I have spended my time by starting my field raport and also I have been checking GLM raports from past year. Tomorrow I am going with Hanna (that volunteer) to Finnish Ambassadors Indenpendece reception to her residence to celebrate Finland. This evening we go out with Clive again to see some clubs and nightlife. Tomorrow I am also doing my final preparations for Livingstone and say goodbye to GLM crew. I come back on Wednesday evening so I am not seeing them anymore before my departure to Finland! I have been here for over a week and days are going so fast. Next week at this time I am on my way to London Heathrow.

African effects.

Helou. I´m sorry that I have been out for day or two. I have had couple very rough nights. Been feeling sick for some reason. Maybe the weather, food or something else, well today much better.
We came to the mall before heading to the office. I have managed to do some computer work with GLM computers and it was about time; they are full of viruses :D.
Here´s some review about recent days:

30.11 Chibobo -> Lusaka

Last morning in Chibobo was kind of same than others. It was nice to go back "home". In my last morning I had one more visit, to see one fund raising chairperson. Her name is Royce and she is leading the hammer mill project. Like I said, with hammer mill villagers can produce maize flour (millie meal) to make food like nshima. Royce said, the new hammer mill have helped them a lot financially and community wise. With income from hammer mill, they could by pigs and food supplies for the villagers. Royce were extremely happy, that GLM have helped them to get that hammer mill and without Green Village project, would not be possible. Boyd was very gratefull, for the work we have been doind and courages us to continue.
That really made an impact to me and I give the greetings to team in Finland too.

We left around 9.30am after saying goodbye (to basicly everybody many times). Drive back to from Chibobo took around five hours thourgh Kapiri Mposhi, Kabwe and Chibombo. Views are just spetaculars and listening African music from the radio, you really feel the vibes.
Sunday evening I spended just resting and reading. Monday I would start my work at GLM office.

1.12 Lusaka

First of December, not only starting of Christmas time, but also World AIDS Day. Here you can not miss it. As you know in Africa, AIDS is an issue and it was all over the news, shopping malls and the streets. There were big events, talk shows and concerts.
Today I worked at GLM office with computer issues. My first job was to install anti-virus softwares and clean their computers from viruses. I think I sweeped around 120 viruses from five computers and 6 memory sticks. GLM office is very small and there is HOT. No air conditioning and I started to feel a bit sick there. When I got back to Emmannuel´s place I felt so sick, that I went to bed after 7pm, could not even eat. I got good rest though and we planned with Clive to get few beers on Tuesday.

More from Chibobo trip.

29.11 Chibobo

Saturday we did one farmer visit, but the farmer was not around. So we just looked around the farms and went back to guest premises to have a lunch. I got very nice memory from this nice lady. One Australian volunteer group had made "Support Chibobo" wristbands to raise some money for villager. She had one extra and she gave it to me. Truly life lasting memory. It very make me smile and be happy to see people to feel good, although their condition are poor, even unacceptable from Finnish point of view. James and Alan came to visit us and I really adore that little James! I played some football with him and he told lot´s of things (of course I did not understand, cause he was speaking bemba, but I tried my best). In the evening we went to see local "nightlife". In Chibobo villagers brew their own beer from maize. We went to couple of places where you could buy and drink it. 750ml bottle costs around 1000kwachas (0.2 euros) and I had some villagers with me enjoyinig the last night out.
I learned some more Bemba, Chawama Ukumanana, means nice to meet you. Tomorrow we are heading back to Lusaka.

HELOU! Here we are again, this time for serious business matters. Downloading the anti-virus definitions for GLM, but I take advantage to write the blog the same time :). Let´s go back the time a bit:

So more about Wednesday evening, like I said, I had nice chats with Diana and Kubanda.
I have noticed that, Zambia has political issues on the cover now, cause the elections where just a month ago. Sitting president Levy died in the summer so Zambia had early elections. Against were ruling party MMD´s candidate Rupiah Banda and opposite partys Michael Sata. Sata were leading in the polls and were leading the counting of the vote. Kubanda explained, that when govermental party saw, that Sata was leading and was winning, they stopped the counting for over a week. Nothing was heard for a while and then they announced that votes have been casted and Banda won? Of course, in result opposite raised huge noise and for a reason! Same kind of situation happened in Zimbabwe. Kubanda said, that this is very normal in African countries.
And today top news, was that Banda signed a contract to raise 50% salaries of the high govermental officers. In the 18th poorest country in the world..

27.11 in Chibobo
We arrived to Chibobo before the dark and met the village co-ordinator Boyd (who is villages closest contact to GLM). Chibobo is village with a bit over than 1500 inhabitants in around 500km from Lusaka. The first word came to my mind seeing the village was “wow!”. You have seen those mud-made houses with grass as a roofs in the movies? Yep, that were the buildings like. Now electricity, no running water, very primitive. Bath is taken in the grass made shelter where boiled water is brought. Toilet, well you can call that toilet, but basicly it was hole in the ground, in the real meaning of the word (see the pictures in FB).
Boyd made a little tour through the village. He showed me the hammer mill (which is used to make corn to maize flower), community school and and our guest house. Actually our guest house were the only real house there and it is very new, build with the help of GLM. We met loads of villagers and everybody where more than friendly. Immediately I learned the first words in Bemba (the local language). Mulishani (when greeting people) and Bwino (response to that).
We had dinner in the evening around eight. At that time it was DARK. When I say dark, it´s black you cannot see anything without a lamp. Lucklily I brought a head lamp from Finland and I found it very usefull. We drank some Mosi and Kaso, Zambian and South African beers and ate nshima with relishes. Zambians eat Nshima in EVERY meal. I even asked is there a day, when they do not eat nshima. “Nshima is food for us, if we have not eaten nshima, we haven´t had a meal.” said one, so they have nshima even in Christmas. I had my own room in the guest house, with couple lizards and spiders.

28.11 Chibobo

In the morning I had my first experience of that bathing place and toilet. Bath, quite okay. Toilet, just hilarious :D hole in the ground. After breakfast we went to see one farmer and farmer club chairperson called Alan Spyder. He lives maybe 5-7km away from the guest house. Alan had many farms and bee hives. He farms maize and fruits. From the bee hives comes honey of course, which is very usefull for many ways. For example, they used it for food and a medicine. We went through Alans farms and hives sometime and then went to see his family. James, couple year old son of Alan´s made and lifelong effect on me. Smiling and happy little boy, full of joy was just amazing view. It really made me think, what really is important in life.
We had not much other activities during the evening. Resting and eating, very relaxing.
I teached some basketball to Boyd, Clive and one villager. Then we had some drinks. Some more than others..
There first full day made me really respect my own life and facilities we live in. Things like clean running water, electricity and daily meal is defaults for us, but here you have to work hard to get even one. In Finland when you shower for 5 minutes, you spend 75 litres of water. Here 13 people wash up with that amount and it is not even clean water. You can do the math.

Safely back In Lusaka.

Hey all!
Just came to write a little bit and tell that I am safely back to Lusaka. The trip to Chibobo was something amazing and there is many stories to tell. Today I don't have much time to spend but coming days I do my best.

27.11

Wednesday evening I spent with Emmanuel's son and sister by watching tv and talking. We watched this Nigerian movie called Small-shit, which was weirdest ever. We talked about Zambia's political situation, which is quite interesting, more about that later.

We left to Chibobo after we bought the food for the trip. The main roads in Zambia are in very good condition, even better than in some cases in Finland. There is police checkpoints almost in every 50km where police checks the condition of the car.
So we went to Chibobo with Clive an Cecicilia (who is also one GLM worker) and we were there after five. I tell you more about the trip tomorrow. Now have to get something to eat.

"Welcome to Zambia, the real Africa."

Again, runned away from the streets of Zambia to secure and comfort shopping mall.
Yesterday evening I hanged out at Emmanuel's, basically just reading and resting, I was so tired.
I had a dinner with James (who is Manu's brother). Nshima with two relishes and that it what they usually eat. We watched tv and just chatted. From Zambians national channel came some weird "drama" series. Man listened to radio in the village and tried to fix it to correct channel and then he mumbled something in Nyanja (one of the Zambian languages). Sure there was some meaning, I just did not get it. I went to bed after nine, did not see Emmanuel yet.

Today I waked up around 6.30am. Usually people get up at six, so they have time wash up, eat and walk to school/work. Emmanuel came to say hello and ate breakfast with him. He also took me to see the possible new GLM office facilities in this one conference center. There is offices or another development organizations like PELUM, which is GLM's top organization. GLM is now negotiating to get office room from there. It would be good thing for them and would make their working lot easier.
I met there one of these organizations called SEPA (don't remember where it comes from) and talked about their project. They have project Zambezi in Northwest Zambia. Their they develop the most important human right, reading and writing. Lady from SEPA explain, that they are building community schools, teach teachers and help community building. She told very sad story about one children who died during the way to school in heavy rain. Sounds tough? Closest school have been 20km away from the villages. Now that they had build community schools, things are getting better. SEPA is funding their project their selves, from their on pockets. Imagine, people with poor condition is funding an co-operational project in one of the poorest city in the world and what we do here? Wealthy country like Finland and people in here does not care a damn.

After that we went to current office. Well, electricity where still off (I just heard that it came back on at 2pm). GLM had management meeting in the dark and I just was reading a book.
We were also planning the real thing, tomorrows field visit to Chibobo with Clive. We are staying there for Friday and Saturday, coming back in Sunday. There we should meet and interview the farmers and see the everyday farmer and villager life. I think and hope that it is going to be my trips high point. So next time you are going to here from me Sunday or Monday and many stories from Chibobo. I tried to attach some pictures but the current computer do not support memory sticks, so I do it after Chibobo.

First day in Africa.

Hey yaa. Here I'm again. Sitting in this clean and strongly supervised mall and in net cafe.
I am gather notes from my trip so far so let's get back.

24.11 Helsinki-Vantaa Airport

Weather was awful to Helsinki and even worse there. Flight to London was late about 1.5h and I had to run to have enough time to eat at Heathrow before departure to Lusaka. In the same plane to London I had a privilege to be with the King itself, Jari Litmanen. From Heathrow to Lusaka trip went smoothly, although could not sleep at all.

25.11 Lusaka

I was at Lusaka around 6.30am. Passport control went also surprisingly smoothly. Our Finnish project workers were warning, that they might try to charge me more money, luckily they didn't.

Clive picked me up from the airport with GLM Toyota. With was very nice to see Clive and he seems to be very happy and trustworthy guy. We proceeded to Emmanuel's house were I am staying for my Lusaka time. He live in this area called Chelston. Area is very tightly built and there is lot's of old houses. Emmanuel house has around 4 bedrooms, small kitchen, living room, toilet and washroom. I am not sure how many are living in there, cause there was people going around all the time, but at least his aunt and three children. I have my own room with one cardboard, bookshelf and bed. Nothing special, but very luxorious compared to other people places. Aunt Chena (I think it was here name) is very friendly. She put my washing water right away to washing room and I could go to "shower" after long flight, very relaxing. Then I had Zambian breakfast. White bread used in some oil and very delicious tee. .
To live at an African house and see the African life it just what I need from this trip. Experience and opportunity weight my own believes what is important and what is not.

We went to GLM office with Clive after quick stop to mall. At the office we supposed to meet other employees and get me familiar with the environment. During the way we went through this market place or so and there it was where the poverty really hits to your face.
Small, couple year old children are wondering around just some old shirt on them, asking for couple hundred kwacha (around 5 cents). People are selling anything they can, from henna tattoos to plastic bags. It is very frustrating to see in which kind of circumstances they live in.
We are very happy to be born in Finland. How hard it is ever for us, we cant even imagine how hard it really is to, when you have to fight to survive for day through.
GLM office were three people plus me and Clive, but not any electricity. That is common that they (govermental officers) shut down the electricity once in a while. Well people working with computers could not do anything, so we just sat there and I offered some Salmiakki candies.

Tomorrow we are supposed to plan the field trip to Chibobo village, where we go on Thursday. We are until Sunday to really see and research about how those project are really working on grass root level. This evening I have my very first real African dinner with Emmanuel's family.
Until that I hang out at the mall and go and have rest.

This is a cliche but Africa have to experience to know it all. .

P.S I have friends on my room. Other side of the wall is birds nest :D YEY!

Mama Africa!

Just way down the Aaafricaa! Here we are, 25 degrees celsius. Warm as hell! I am now sitting in the internet cafe quickly to check my mail and write little something. I have now visited my host family at Emmanuel's place. Next I am going to GLM office to meet rest of the crew. Clive picked my up from the airport and is now guiding me through.

I am a bit nervous cause I am seen only couple white people here. Now I know how immigrants feel in Finland, being minority.

Detailed info and pictures coming later!

Flight to Heathrow airport departs at 14.05!

And tomorrow it is FINALLY the day, when I leave this dark and wealthy Finland to bright and exotic Zambia. Yesterday I was visiting my friend´s housewarming party as my last "night out in Finland". I had a great time and I hope somebody else had too ;).
Today I have packed. And packed and checking that everything is coming with me. I take bus to Helsinki-Vantaa airport at nine o`clock and I should be on my way to Heathrow at 14.05.

It is quite exiting to travel alone. I realized, that I have only traveled alone, once to Estonia this Fall! That gives bit more color to my trip. I can´t wait to see how the everyday life is lived in the country, where 50% of the people live with only one dollar per day. In the country where 17% or even more population have HIV. In the country where people don´t know when to go to work, if they can eat today or not.

I don´t know how much I can write from Lusaka. There should be good internet cafe´s so be prepared to hear from daily! Expect my field visit to Chibobo.

Next time when you hear from me, I am somewhere over the rainbow.

Three days and counting.

Wuhuu! Weekend is here and final preparations should be started. I think I should start packing, but maybe I leave it to Sunday. Tomorrow I´m going to basketball tournament to coach my boys. I have made an huge list what should I take with. Weight limit for luggage is 20kg, so let´s see what I have to leave behind. I´m very lucky, that our Finnish project workers have been there before, so they could give tips that I might be able to consider myself.
I have tried to find something to bring to GLM and I got a good idea! Cause I am going to work with computer issues, it would be nice to bring some computer related reading so they could learn themselves too. Well, this small town of Turku (170 000 inhabitants) DO NOT have computer books in English! I was quite shocked. Well I try to find something.

We had an African dinner with our finnish project workers this evening. Our finnish project co-ordinator made this very traditional Zambian food. It is called nishma and it´s kinda like mashed potatoes but lot thicker and you eat it with hands. With nishma there is usually relishes like beans and cabbage. It was interesting to eat with hands (and bit difficult too) cause you have to make small balls from nishma and use it like a spoon to eat those relishes. But very delicious it was.

So Monday it starts. Trip to hole different culture and world. Trip to eye opening experience which can change the man itself. Can´t wait!

J

Six days and Zambia here I come!

18Th of November at 12.15.

It is now Tuesday and next week Monday I am on my way. My plane till London will depart at 14.05 from Helsinki-Vantaa airport. I will be in Lusaka 25Th of November at 6.35am.
Till now I am almost ready to go. Some general issues I have to take care still (like packing). Visa and plane tickets have been taking care of and also needed injections and malaria-medicines.

Something about my program in Zambia. Like some of you know I am going there to monitor an development co-operation project which our Student Union have there in 5 villages in Central Province in Zambia. It is a three years project which is funded by Foreign Ministry. It´s mandatory to evaluate every year and this is the first time for it.
I am going to stay at Emmanuel´s place (who is manager of the local co-operational partner) in Lusaka.
My planned program is:
25-26.11 in Lusaka, getting familiar with host family and GLM (Green Living Movement)
27-30.11 in Chibob project village. Getting to know the project and interviewing farmers
1-5.12 in Lusaka GLM office. Helping with computer issues.
6-10.12 Visit to Livingstone and Victoria Falls!
11.12 Leaving from Zambia and heading back to Turku.

I have many things to do there and I know that I am going to get life lasting expriences from it!
Through this blog I want to share my adventures with you and do my best to post some pictures too!